I agree wholeheartedly. Almost all of the abstractions in WebForms are leaky, and the think that it's abstracting... HTML, isn't so complex that it benefits from being abstracted.
When I explain ApEx I usually describe it as "Access, for Oracle, but with web pages".
And like Access or VB6 it's great while you colour inside the lines. You can use it to smash together small LOB CRUB apps together in hours, even minutes for the smallest ones.
You can take a look at RealStudio. The Web Edition is in the early versions and is still a little rough around the edges though their Mac/Windows desktop development environments are much better and have been around for many years.